The 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Rangen Clos St.-Urbain V.T. was made from microscopic yields of one-half ton of fruit per acre, and attained 16% alcohol naturally. The wine is absolutely amazing. With its honeyed, exotic fruit, buttery, spicy, waxy nose, thick, unctuously rich, massive flavors, vibrant acidity, and smashingly long finish, this Z-H wine could be classified as a food product rather than as a beverage. Like several of these wines, 5-6 years of cellaring is essential, but the Clos St.-Urbain V.T. will last for 25-30 years. This 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris is virtually perfect.

I tasted four Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris offerings from the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in 1994. Almost all were made from yields that averaged one-half to just over a ton of fruit per acre! Their alcohol levels are in the 15%+ range. Readers should recognize that all of these wines take concentration, extract, intensity, alcohol, purity, and mouth-savoring characteristics to the maximum. In short, they represent the essence of great winemaking - tiny yields from profoundly well-placed vineyards, spectacular concentration and balance, and the potential for 25-30+ years of ageability. Depending on the level of acidity (unusually high in this vintage) these wines taste off-dry rather than moderately sweet. To reiterate, only the greatest Montrachets from Burgundy attain this stature. And if the truth be known, these wines are richer and more ageworthy than most Montrachets.

With respect to the recently released wines, Olivier Humbrecht stated that he had never seen such intensely ripe Pinot Gris with such high levels of acidity.

Drink: 2001 - 2026

Wine Advocate # 105 Jun 1996