"The 1998 Blanc de Blancs is a gorgeous wine with well-delineated varietal aromas and flavors. From start to finish, this is a wine that exudes refinement and balance. The fruit is sourced from Mesnil, Avize, Cramant and Chouilly, but it is really Mesnil and its mineral drive that dominates the balance. In 1998 50% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation and 5% of the wine was aged in oak. This remains a very fresh, linear Blanc de Blancs capable of another ten years of very fine drinking. This is Lot 663738 3170 7M, disgorged in June, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.

Billecart-Salmon, based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, makes wines in a style that is all about timeless elegance. These Champagnes are characterized by their supreme balance. All of the 2008 vins claires I tasted showed remarkable harmony and transparency of site. Much of the aromatic complexity of the wines can be attributed to a preference towards cold temperatures in fermentation, which keeps the wines fresh. The domaine uses Burgundian oak barrels for a portion of the wines. The exact amount of batonnage and malolactic fermentation depend on the vintage. Prior to being bottled the wines are blended in a large steel tank to insure consistency, something the estate takes very seriously. In general the non-vintage wines receive 7-9 grams of dosage, while the vintage wines have 5-7 grams, depending on the year. Among current releases, I found the 1998s to be brilliant, while the 2000s, from a much more challenging growing season, come across as less refined. The estate does not disclose disgorgement dates, but a code on the foil wrapping can be traced back to a date."

Robert Parker, Wine Advocate # 180 December 2008