The salmon-colored 1999 La Grande Annee Rose is a pretty Champagne that offers terrific balance in its expansive, sweet core of fruit and expressive aromatics. The warm, opulent quality of the vintage comes through in the wine's soft, caressing texture. As outstanding as this wine is, it doesn't quite have the complexity I had hoped for. That may come with further cellaring, only time will tell. The 1999 La Grande Annee Rose is composed of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, with 7% of still Ay Pinot, all first pressing juice. 82% of the fruit came from grand cru vineyards while 18% came from premier cru sites. The dosage was 7-9 grams and this bottle was disgorged in March 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014.

Under the direction of Chef de Caves Mathieu Kauffmann, Bollinger produces one of the most consistent lineups in Champagne.Bollinger is one of the handful of larger firms that manages to put out consistently high quality wines despite its size. This estate based in Ay is probably best known to the public through its long association with the James Bond films, which is quite possibly one of the most successful product placement campaigns of all time. Despite the show biz glamor that has inextricably become part of the Bollinger mystique, at their best these are serious wines with significant aging potential. The low-dosage R.D. (recently-disgorged) series can be tremendous, and the Vielles Vignes Francaises, made from pre-phylloxera Pinot Noir vines, is one of Champagne's most exotic bottlings. The estate favors neutral oak barrels for the aging of its top wines. One of the most unique aspects of this estate is that the reserve wines are aged in magnum, rather than in tank, which is the prevailing custom in the region. Bollinger's back labels are quite informative, but it would be nice to see disgorgement dates as well on the non-vintage wines.

Wine Advocate #180 Dec 2008