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When Nick Glaetzer’s Glaetzer-Dixon Family Winemakers MON PèRE Shiraz 2010 became the first Tasmanian wine to win the fabled 2011 Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show, it brought back memories of another equally historic win. Back in 1983, David Hoehnen, then of Cape Mentelle, won the trophy for the winery’s 1982 dry red claret. It was the first time a Margaret River region cabernet sauvignon had won the coveted award, which was first established in 1963 by Jimmy Watson’s family and friends to honour his legacy of promoting fresh, young Australian reds.
In a fascinating article on the history of the Jimmy Watson in the second issue of James Halliday’s Wine Companion magazine, Hoehnen told wine writer Jane Faulkner that winning the Jimmy Watson was not only life changing for Cape Mentelle but for the Margaret River region in general: “The most telling achievement of the award was not just about getting the name Cape Mentelle out and better recognised, which it did and that was wonderful for us, but more so it was critical Margaret River. From then on people took notice.” (“Just Rewards” by Jane Faukner, James Halliday’s Wine Companion, Feb/Mar 2012)
Only time will tell whether Glaetzer’s win will be equally as significant for his fledgling young winery and for Tasmanian shiraz in general. But the win has already generated a fair amount of publicity, with many commentators noting that for a Tasmanian shiraz to beat out 1,249 other young red wine entries is nothing less than extraordinary.
When it comes to red wine production, Tasmania is far better known for pinot noir than shiraz. All up less than five hectares of shiraz vines are planted in Tasmania, and as a whole Tasmania accounts for less than 1 per cent of Australian wine production! But Glaetzer, a fourth generation member of the famed Barossa Glaetzer family, recognised that the cool climate shiraz vines, first planted in the 1970s in the Coal River and Upper Derwent valleys, had the potential to create elegant, complex shiraz wines with finer flavour profiles and more evocative in style of the Northern Rhône valley wines, particularly from the Hermitage, Saint Joseph and Côte-Rôtie appellations.
Like Hoehnen before him, Nick Glaetzer can be considered as somewhat of a pioneer. Hoehnen said that winning Jimmy Watson gave him the confidence and credibility to start up Cloudy Bay in 1984 – the winery that transformed world-wide perceptions of sauvignon blanc and firmly established New Zealand as a serious wine making country! The Mon Père shiraz (named in honour of Nick’s father, Baron of Barossa Colin Glaetzer), has already demonstrated Glaetzer’s passion for experimentation and challenging convention. His next moves will be fun to watch!
Photo Credit: Son of the Barossa plonks wine award by Emma Hope, The Advertiser, 28 October 2011
The Wine Advocate’s Neal Martin notes that on his visits to Bordeaux the proprietors of the châteaux typically serve Pol Roger: “Sure, if they are out to schmooze then Cristal is poured, but when they want to share a champagne that they like to drink themselves, then Pol Roger is the bubbly doing the rounds.” (To the House of Defiance: Pol Roger 1914 – 1998 by Neal Martin, October 2007, eRobertParker.com)
I’ve just finished reading Anne Sebba’s fascinating biography of Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor. Sir Winston Churchill was one of the central figures in the dramatic events that led to the abdication of Edward VIII in 1936 so the King of England could marry the twice divorced Mrs Simpson.
Pol Roger was, of course, Churchill’s favourite Champagne, of which he famously quipped: “In victory, deserve it. In defeat, need it!” Churchill apparently made his first purchase of Pol Roger in 1908 and became a huge fan of the 1928 vintage, which he admired for its sweetness and richness. In the 1940s he developed a close friendship with Odette Pol-Roger, who was famously photographed by Cecil Beaton, the Duchess of Windsor’s favourite photographer.
By the time of his death in 1965, Churchill had procured over 500 cases of Pol Roger, and to mark his passing the Champagne House placed a black band on the white foil of bottles destined for the UK. In 1984 Pol Roger released the first Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, based on the 1975 vintage and only soured from grand crus vineyards that were active during Churchill’s lifetime. Made in the richer style that Churchill preferred, the wine is now Pol Roger’s top cuvée, and is greatly admired for its complexity, elegance and finesse.
Located in the heart of Epernay, Pol Roger is the last of the grandes marques still owned by the founding family. Pol Roger’s Chief Executive Patrice Noyelle told Martin that once a year the whole family gets together to taste and blend all the components that will go to make the Brut Reserve, Vintage, Blanc de Blancs, Rosé, the Winston Churchill and the “Rich” – made of dosage of 34gms/litre compared to the others which have around 11gms/litre. Noyelle and Chef de Caves Dominique Petit believe that great champagne is all about the fruit. The House owns over 85 hectares of vineyards, which supply about 50% of the fruit required for an annual production of more than 1.5 million bottles. Careful attention in the vineyard is matched by meticulous care in the winery and cellars. Four remuageurs riddle an astonishing 50,000 to 60,000 bottles per day in Pol Roger’s vast network of chalk cellars underneath Epernay!
Martin believes that one of the reasons why Pol Roger is so popular with Bordeaux proprietors is “There is just so much freshness and nervosité in great vintages.” I found the 1998 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, recently tasted at a Vintage Cellars Champagne Tasting, surprisingly fresh and fruity for a wine of its age. But the wine also made me understand how the complexity of great Champagnes sensuously unfold on the palate. The forward fruit flavours and acidity give way to a complex honeyed richness and creamy texture with nuances of almonds and toasted brioche.
The whole range is exceptional. Champagne expert Tom Stevenson MW, describes the Blanc de Blancs Vintage (100% chardonnay) as “an insanely delicious, classy, and ridiculously undervalued Champagne.” Paradoxically, he notes, that although Pol Roger Champagnes are renowned for their longevity, “all vintages of this cuvee are so sumptuous and creamy when first released that there is little point in ageing them, although they will develop nicely for a further three to five years in your cellar….If you want a Champagne guaranteed to last fifty years or more, buy Pol Roger Vintage, but if you want an instant and mesmerising hit, open a bottle of Blanc de Blancs.” (1001 Wine You Must Try Before You Die, Neil Becket, General Editor, 2010: Cameron House).
Perhaps a bottle of Pol Roger is a great way to see in the New Year!
Photo Credit: Corks Out
Merrill Witt, Editor
The Wine Advocate’s Lisa Perrotti-Brown has just released a list of the top 20 good value producers in Australia for 2011. As the Wine Advocate’s main subscription base is the US, the list includes only wineries, both large and small, that export to major markets around the world. (No point, I guess, in choosing wineries that a US or European consumer would have no chance of finding on a bottle shelf in their home country).
According to Perrotti-Brown, “Producing singular wines of great character and expression for under US$25 / AU$25 is no easy task, but these guys and gals have all managed to create wines that are nothing short of incredible in this capacity.”
Here are her choices (The links take you to the winery websites if available):
Australian Domain Wines, McLaren Vale
Ad Hoc/Ad Lib, Western Australia
Balgowni Estate, Bendigo, Victoria
Chateau Tanunda, Barossa Valley, SA
Hentley Farm, Barossa Valley, SA
Hoddles Creek Estate, Yarra Valley, Vic
Innocent Bystander, Yarra Valley, Vic
Jansz, Tasmania
Madfish, produced by Howard Park, Margaret River and Great Southern, WA
Margan Family Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW
Massena, Barossa Valley, SA
Mollydooker, McLaren Vale, SA
Paringa Estate, Mornington Peninsula, Vic
Penfolds, Multi-Regional, SA
Pirie, Tamar Valley, Tasmania
Rolf Binder, Barossa Valley, SA
Shingleback, McLaren Vale, SA
Small Gully, Barossa Valley, SA
Tyrrell’s Wines, Hunter Valley, NSW
Yabby Lake, Mornington Peninsula, Vic
(Australian Wine Values of 2011: Better than Ever by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, eRobertParker.com 23 December 2011)
Photo: Red Knot McLaren Vale Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre 2010 ($11.50) Made by Shingleback. Perrott-Brown awarded this wine the International Judge’s trophy at the 2011 McLaren Vale Wine Show. “It’s an absolute winner that I continue to drink at home and highly recommend.”
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