91 Points Tyson Stelzer
Lalou was the prestige wine of the house between 1969 and 1985, but the bottle mould and recipe were lost somewhere in the wild ride of ownership changes. In 1998, Demarville revived the cuvée, this time a blend of 12 parcels in estate grand cru vineyards. Only at the point of blending is the decision made as to which parcels will win the golden ticket (it may be as few as two, if the vintage is deemed worthy at all). The only absolute is an equal blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. A liqueur of Cramant and Bouzy is aged in barrel to build sufficiently to meet the power of the wine. The 1999 Lalou is unashamedly built as a strong wine and has evolved considerably from the lemon zest and citrus blossom personality of the first release of the same disgorgement two years ago. The nougat and vanilla of long lees ageing have developed into biscuit, toffee, honey and praline, overlaying soft, succulent peach fruit. Its ripe fruit presence and soft acidity conspire to generate an impression of sweetness that belies its low dosage.
Source: Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2014-2015.