When New Zealand winemakers’ Blair Walter (Felton Road) and Nick Mills (Rippon) opened their address with a very loud and captivating rendition of the Maori Haku, the stage was set for a very lively debate about whose pinot reigns supreme? (Wished I taped it, but my photo of Nick Mills give you a bit of an idea!)
The audience was collapsing with laughter while the two Australian winemakers on the panel, Michael Dhillon (Bindi) and Nick Farr (By Farr and Farr Rising), looked on with bemusement! No, unfortunately, they hadn’t prepared an Aussie comeback! (C’mon Aussie c’mon perhaps?)
The subsequent discussion, led by wine critic Nick Stock, was fascinating so I thought I’d share a few of the highlights:
Clonal Variety vs Vine Age – New Zealand vs Australia
Farr noted that due to stricter Australian quarantine rules, New Zealand has had the edge when it comes to choice of clones.
But according to the Australian winemakers vine age can compensate for the effects of less clonal variety. The vines of the MP6 clone used for the Macedon Ranges’ Bindi Block 5, for example, are now 18 years old. Dhillon believes he has seen increasing complexity, minerality and balance with each subsequent vintage of his wine.
Terroir is Key
Of all the varieties pinot noir is probably the greatest communicator of terroir. Not surprisingly, the winemakers said their greatest challenge is finding the right location!
Mills noted that for New Zealand winemakers achieving wines with good fruitiness is practically a given, as New Zealand’s dramatic diurnal variation is very good for sealing in flavour and colour. The right terroir is what gives the wines their coveted subtle flavours, complexity and structure.
Winemaker’s Influence … Read the rest