99 Points Tyson Stelzer
A dramatic year made for a controversial Krug vintage. The hottest August since 1991 saw 40 ° C heat burning some vines and destroying 15% of the crop. Chardonnay held its freshness better than pinot, so this wine became the second in the history of the house to comprise predominantly chardonnay (the other was 1981). ‘Krug is all about pinot noir, but this wine is much more about chardonnay,’ Olivier explains. His father Henri declared, ‘This is not Krug!’ But to Olivier ‘every vintage has to taste as different as possible from the previous one, otherwise there is no interest. We do not try to force the vintage into the house style.’ I adore the way that chardonnay holds this wine, utterly transcending its 15 years, vitalising an air of lemon blossom perfume, a shard of fresh acidity and an ageless primary citrus note that rings in clear peals like church bells. The palate darts with all the fruit velocity and agility of its release many years ago, building ever-deeper complexity in layers of brioche, nougat and honey, intricately interwoven with peach and fig generosity and subtle flickers of nutmeg and mixed spice. It swirls into a river of minerality that flows deep and swift across the palate, frothing with whitewash of mouth-filling, salty minerality that lingers and splashes long and strong.
Source: Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2014-2015.
95 Points Robert Parker
Krug''s 1998 Brut Vintage is an excellent choice for drinking today, as the classic Krug style is rich, alive and totally vivid. Honey, almonds, smoke, graphite and dried apricots are some of the many aromas and flavors found in this rich, enveloping Champagne. A wine of texture and depth, the 1998 impresses for its vinous personality and terrific balance. Lively veins of underlying acidity suggest the 1998 will drink well for many years to follow. This is one of the best bottles of the 1998 I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2038.
Source: Robert Parker (eRobertParker.com) by Antonio Galloni. January, 2012
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