94 Points Tyson Stelzer
Jacquesson pulled out every stop for this cuvée in the challengingly warm and wet 2010 season, producing no single-vineyard wines and using a very high proportion of chardonnay to build finesse and elegance. ‘The idea of this cuvée is to give the identity of the base vintage, but we had to put a lot of things in here to make it work!’ exclaims Jean-Hervé. And work it does, an impressive result for the season, albeit, inevitably, a lesser example of 700 series. As ever, it’s coiled and tense on release, will benefit from a few more years to flesh out, and will blossom magnificently over the coming decade. Chardonnay takes the lead in impressive focus of crunchy lemon and grapefruit, opening into crunchy red apple and the subtle spice of barrel fermentation. More recent tastings have shown generous suggestions of golden fruit cake and fruit mince spice. Skilfully managed barrel work spins beautifully woven texture without oxidation or oak character, building a fine, creamy mouthfeel that amplifies salty minerality. A well-crafted and characterful wine of driving structure, charged with excellent acid line, finishing even, dry and long.
Source: Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017.