96 Points Tyson Stelzer
Pol Roger’s success with Blanc de Blancs has overtaken it: the cuvée has been over-allocated and the house has made the call to release this vintage after less than six years on lees (the 2006 had eight years and the 2002 had nine). This is a shame for a vintage as long-lived as 2008, but don’t let this slow you down — only you must promise that under no circumstances will you pop a bottle before 2018. It will not be until at least 2028 that it finally unravels to reveal its full glory. Right now, it’s the epitome of coiled tension, delicately setting lemon zest, white pepper, marzipan and wonderful struck-flint reduction against a dizzying shard of pure acidity. An undercurrent of frothing, salty minerality glistens brilliantly as the most striking high note of this incredible season. It’s scintillating, crystalline and thrilling.
The Champagne Guide 2016-2017.