92 Points Tyson Stelzer
Hervé Dantan is frank about 2005: ‘ripe and generous, not a great vintage’. He’s spot on, though the Lanson style of malic acidity and long lees age goes some way towards flattering this season. The richness of the vintage leaps out in bountiful yellow summer fruits and grilled pineapple, set confidently against a complex, secondary backdrop of crème brûlée, brioche, vanilla, quince, wood spice and even a suggestion of mint. As it builds maturity, the coarse dry extract and phenolic grip that characterise the vintage are increasingly subsumed by its warm generosity. Well-focused malic acidity enlivens the finish, energising the lemon zest core of this richly flavoured style. The result is a lesser Gold Label but a good result for the season, making for a vintage to drink over the next few years, while the 2004 and 2002 soften in the cellar.
Source: Tyson Stelzer.