The 2024 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay leads with walnuts and curry leaf, white pepper and wet chalk, pineapple, almond meal and pink grapefruit. It is both fresh and savory, and a thrust of powerful fruit and reduction in concert soar across the palate. The fruit flavors—nutty and citrus-laden, thanks to the P58 Chardonnay clone grown here on the gravel clay soils of the Victorian Alp foothills—linger long through the finish and allow the dissection of flavor, impact and texture to occur over time. This is a remarkable wine, one of incisive focus and attractive width of texture. It has few peers in its execution of style. This vintage is decidedly savory; its aperture of focus zeroed right in on the tension between the acidity, the reduction, the intensely saturated fruit and the phenolic structure. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. In terms of comparison of this 2024 expression to previous vintages, the 2023 was a quiet, floral wine that has, since its release, grown on me and demands not to be overlooked. This 2024 is a bigger, more powerful wine than the 2023. The 2024 is tighter and more structural than the opulent 2022, which showed tremendous width on release and which only seems to be growing in bottle. The 2021 is a standalone wine in terms of bringing all of these elements together in an almost magical way; although having seen that vintage several times over the past few months, it should be, in my opinion, left alone for a few years before coming around to it again. Beyond that, there appears no limit to its life. I'd say this savory 2024 rendition of Giaconda Chardonnay tucks in just behind the 2021 for me in terms of pleasure, structure, length and power. I look forward to watching it further evolve over the coming week. I was standing in the Giaconda vineyard in January 2024, and despite some intense rain around Central Victoria in the days leading up to my visit, the vineyard (further north) looked superb. It is elevated, well drained and well managed; the crop load looked healthy; and the condition of the berries was excellent. I thought at that time that the 2024 wine would be something to behold. That has played out to be correct. Published: Mar 06, 2026 Drink 2026 - 2045.
Source: Robert Parker.