The fitting capstone to what was a terrific vintage for Clarendon Hills, the 2015 Astralis Syrah is destined to become a McLaren Vale legend. Remarkably precise, complex and pristine aromas of anise, pepper, mint and blueberries lead the way. They're followed by a full-bodied yet impeccably ripe palate that's dense and concentrated yet supple, leading into a velvety, nearly endless finish. Wow. It had a been a while since a Wine Advocate reviewer ventured into the uplands off McLaren Vale to visit proprietor Roman Bratasiuk and his son, Alex, so there was a crapload (that's a technical wine-tasting term) of wine waiting for me. Since the breakup of John Larchet's Australian Premium Wine Collection, they've had some issues finding the right partner to work with in the United States, but they keep turning out a bevy of single-vineyard wines each year. Roman describes 2013 as elegant and nicely balanced and 2014 as pretty hot (in a good way). As for 2015, well, you can read the reviews below. It's a huge success here, with supple textures and an early approachability that gives the wines an extra level of charm, without being less concentrated or age-worthy. Here, Grenache is considered a star, as Roman said, "The complexity of the fruit, it just pisses on the other varieties." There's no new oak used to age the Grenache, while Cabernet Sauvignon gets 60% to 70% new oak. In most instances, the concentration of the fruit here is such that the oak doesn't make a huge impact on the nose or palate. The wines are never fined or filtered, says Roman, which means more patience may be required in certain vintages. Many of the 2013s I reviewed this issue are still not ready for prime-time drinking. On the other hand, many of the 2015s are already approachable. Drink 2022 - 2040.
Source: Robert Parker.